TheTraveler

 

BARCELONA LIVE...LAS RAMBLAS AND BARRI GOTIC
By Christian Franklin
Photos by Charlie Torello

If you are only in town for a day or two or three, this is the area that you will want to explore. If you ever come to Barcelona, Spain and do not walk down Las Ramblas and do not walk through Barri Gotic (also known as the Gothic Quarter) you will have a hard time explaining yourself to anyone that will ask you "How did you like Barcelona?" Las Ramblas is without a doubt the most famous street in Spain, and it is possibly the most famous street in all of Europe. The Gothic Quarter in Barcelona is the most well preserved example of early European architecture to be found in any city today. It has been left..almost...untouched by the ravages of two World Wars, and a terrible civil war that happened here in Spain not too long ago.

I arrived in Barcelona on the first day of September. It was a most glorious day with sunny, blue, skies and a warm but lively breeze blowing off of the Mediterranean Sea. I hailed a cab at the airport to take me to my new apartment that has been my home for over three months now. I queried the cab driver about the weather and he assured me that I had arrived at a very good time. "Last month was dreadfully hot!" he exclaimed, then he wiped his brow for effect. We pulled up to my new address and I unloaded four heavy bags and one guitar, and just a few moments later we were on our way to Las Ramblas, the first destination that I had penciled into my notebook.

The cabby let me out at Plaza Catalunya, which is at the top-end of Las Ramblas. Plaza Catalunya is the heart of this city. Here is where you can feel the strong, vibrant pulse of the city. The action here is almost nonstop day and night. The tourists and the shoppers, the businessmen and the kids, the young and the old alike wander past the fountains and through the plaza on their way to somewhere else, and today I was wandering past the fountains and through the plaza so that I could walk down the famed Las Ramblas. I walked past the Cafe´ Zurich, a landmark in Barcelona, and a favorite meeting place for locals and tourists alike. I crossed the busy street and found the Font de les Canaletes at the top of Las Ramblas. I took a drink from this late 19th-century fountain. It is common knowledge in Barcelona, that if one drinks from the fountain, he or she will surely return to Barcelona. Apparently many people drink from this fountain...and some who do...never leave Barcelona! That is the kind of magic that is evident in this city. Once you get here, you will not want to leave either!

The pedestrian friendly Ramblas has been a gathering place for well over a century now. Townspeople meet to chat and stroll along the wide avenue. Tourists walk Las Ramblas wide-eyed, trying to take it all in. And your first stroll here will show you the meaning of "sensory overload." Both sides of the wide avenue are lined with grand old mansions that have been over the years converted into theaters, restaurants, high dollar fashion shops, hip dance clubs, hotels, hostels, museums, and art galleries. The spectacular opera house, Gran Teatre del Liceu is on Las Ramblas, as well as the famous market by the name of Mercat de la Boqueria. It is a treat and a blast from the past to stroll through the market and view all of the stalls overflowing with fresh, iced down seafood, fresh colorful veggies of every kind, meat still on the hoof, any kind of cheese you could ever imagine, fresh fragrant flowers, stalls with nuts, pasta, candy, breads and pastries. The market is open most of the day, and there are little cafes´ there that will cook up fresh seafood for you, if you are so inclined as to stop for a heaping plate of tasty shrimp and a cold beer.

Las Ramblas is something of a stage on it's own. Here is the area of town where you will see street musicians every 40 yards, mimes that look believable as statues, puppeteers, dancers and artists. Some of the musicians are topnotch, and some of the artists that come here to sell their work are very good indeed. The way is adorned with lively stalls that sell magazines, newspapers, books and chocolate. Also, it is fun to stop at the stalls along Las Ramblas that sell the chattering, and most colorful exotic birds, rabbits, fish, turtles, iguanas, snakes, chinchillas, mice, chipmunks, guinea pigs...and you can even buy a prairie dog or a fluffy yellow duckling if that's your thing!

As you walk down towards the end of Las Ramblas, and toward the port full of beautiful yachts, you will see the statue of Columbus atop an ornate tower. Columbus returned from his historic voyage to Barcelona, and not too far from Las Ramblas, located in the Gothic Quarter, is the palace where he told of his discoveries to King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella. Columbus is the adopted son of Barcelona, and today he points out to sea from 170 feet in the air.

The Gothic Quarter is the oldest part of Barcelona, and was built up from the Mediterranean Sea towards the hills that encircle the present day city. Las Ramblas frames one side of the Gothic Quarter, and as you walk off the wide Ramblas and into the Barri Gotic, you will discover the narrow lanes of yesterdays gone by. Within this oldest area of Barcelona, you will want to stroll through the historic Plaza del Rei, which was at one time the courtyard of the Royal Palace inhabited by the successive counts of Barcelona. Now, surrounding the courtyard, on the lower levels of the old palace, are a number of popular restaurants and clubs for lovers of the nightlife. Just sit on the fountain wall and people-watch when your legs are ready for a rest. The Gothic Quarter is home to old Roman remains in the subterranean complex of Roman. A great museum that is a must see is the Museu d´Historia de la Ciutat (City History Museum). Also in the old town is the Dali Museum, and the Museu Frederic Mares, full of artifacts from the 12th - 14th centuries, and The Museu Picassso which is one of the most visited old town sites. The narrow, lively, "alleyways" that connect all the historical sites in this area are lined with tapas bars as well as high dollar eateries, cool gadget shops, Irish pubs, tobacco shops, shoe stores and clothing stores selling the latest in stylish European fashion.

Barcelona is home to many splendid cathedrals, but the Gothic Quarter in particular, is home to one of the most fantastic religious sites in Europe. The Santa Maria del Mar is a most spectacular building that was built in the 14th century. It is touted to be the very best example of early Catalan-Gothic architecture, and you will believe that when you walk through the massive doors and step inside this awe-inspiring cathedral. As you walk on top off ancient stone blocks laid down for flooring, soaring pillars lift your eyes upward toward the large stained-glass windows that let in the light from the heavens.

When you leave the Santa del Mar, look for the famous cafe Cuatro Gats, not too far away, so you can have a nice, hot, coffee and sit in the same cafe that Picasso and his artists pals liked to frequent. The walls are adorned with prints from the famous artist and his lesser known, but locally famous friends. It still retains an antique atmosphere, and serves tasty tapas.

On really crowded days you will walk slowly among the old buildings and stretch your eyes upward to take in the fantastic old architecture... but if you feel a need to get out of the confines of narrow streets from days of old, and away from the mass of humanity that will most certainly be walking along all around you, do not worry. That is when you find your way to Parc de la Ciutadella, also in the "Old Town". This popular park has a zoo...check out the albino gorilla, a zoological museum, a geological museum, orange groves and a nice lake where you can rent small boats to float in for awhile, relax, and take in the great expanse of greenery that is surrounding you. Keep an eye out for the very bright green parrots chattering away in the palm trees all around you. If you are a bird lover or bird watcher, they are a real treat to sit and watch. If the beach is on your mind, that is no problem to get to either from the Gothic Quarter, as the sun, the wind, the sand, and the waves of the Mediterranean Sea at Barceloneta Beach are only a short walk away!

copyright 2004 by Christian Franklin) Christian Franklin is a freelance writer/photographer living in Barcelona. Contact cjamesdream@yahoo.com

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