TheTraveler

 

Having a Lark with Danger
Stephanie Jackson

As the strange yellow vehicle lurched along the highway, it was obvious that this was the beginning of a journey that would be fraught with danger. But I was prepared to take any risks, and to cope with each danger as it arose – all in the name of having a good time.

The highway was Forty Mile Beach that at low tide becomes a route linking the northern Australian townships of Rainbow Beach and Noosa, and here danger routinely shows its face at the notorious Mudlo Rocks. With more than 84 vehicles trapped on the rocks and swallowed up by the sea in one eight month period, the dangers, for inexperienced and impatient drivers, are far from imaginary.

Mark Burgess, of Surf and Sand Safaris, drove his vehicle confidently towards the rocks, with no hint of the trepidation that draws lines of concern on the faces of other drivers who use the beach highway. His smile of confidence momentarily faded as his vehicle’s massive wheels slipped and spun on rocks submerged by an incoming tide, but for Mark, escape from the clutches of the rocky outcrop was easy. He reversed, made a sharp left turn, and met the force of the sea head on, for his vehicle was a seemingly invincible LARC- a lighter amphibious resupply cargo vessel - that is equally at home in the water as it is on land.

The LARC has a colorful tale of war and peace to tell, for it is one of only 400 survivors of 900 identical vehicles built for the U.S. army in the 1960’s for use in the Vietnam war, and that later earned its keep in the frozen wilderness of Antarctica. Now its only battle is against the ocean’s waves as it ferries its modern cargo of excited holidaymakers around Australia’s Cooloola Coast.

Those who travel on board the LARC face an ever present risk of getting wet – but on a hot summer’s day, that thought offered more relief than fear, and as the huge waves that lashed the craft drenched its passengers, it was obvious that this coastal adventure was going to be a splash hit with all on board.

As we continued on a roller coaster ride across the turquoise waters of Wide Bay, the salty water that trickled from my eyes was a blend of sea spray and tears of laughter as Mark related his humorous version of the aboriginal Dreamtime legend of the creation of the colored sands that give Rainbow Beach its name.

The high dunes that hem the ocean are composed of mineral-enriched sands of more than 40 colors – pink, yellow, red, black, white, and all shades in between, with fresh water that seeps from underground springs painting multicolored streaks across the dunes, and across nature’s eroded sculptures that appear like rock, yet crumble like fragile sand castles.

The Carlo Sandblow, a conspicuous white scar across the face of the dunes, and that with its jagged sand formations resembles a stark lunar landscape, was noted in 1770 by Lieutenant James Cook who named the sands that threaten to engulf the rainforests of the adjacent Great Sandy National Park, in honor of his humble cabin boy.

The LARC surfed into secluded Honeymoon Bay on the crest of foaming waves, rocking and rolling across submerged sandbars, before scrambling onto a deserted beach at the foot of Double Island Point, a rugged promontory that Cook had also named in his log.

I had forgotten my swimsuit, and this was not the time or place for skinny dipping, so after a welcome hit of caffeine, a snack, and a brief paddle in the Pacific’s refreshingly cool waters, I joined our guide Peter to explore the rocky headland.

Getting there: Rainbow Beach is 263 kms north of Brisbane, the state’s capital. There are daily bus services from Brisbane to Rainbow Beach.

Tour charges:
The half-day tour on board the LARC costs around $52 for adults, $50 for seniors, and $30 for children aged 5-14. A full day tour, departing by bus from the Sunshine Coast, costs $80 per person. Bookings can be made by phoning Surf and Sand Safaris on 61 7 5486 3131, or through regional tourist information centres. Additional tour information is available on the tour operator’s website at www.surfandsandsafaris.com.au (Prices are quoted in U.S. dollars).

Where to stay:
There is a wide range of accommodation at Rainbow Beach, including backpacker hostels, motels, and self-contained cabins in the town’s two trailer parks where tent sites for campers are also available.

Contact:
The Cooloola Region Visitors’ Information Centre can provide details of other regional attractions and accommodation. Contact the centre by phone on 61 7 5483 5554, by fax sent to 61 7 5483 5593, or by e-mail sent to info@cooloola.org.au, or check out their website at www.cooloola.org.au

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