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Maine to Quebec and Back Again
By Kathryn Lemmon

With my third visit having come and gone, I'm gradually getting acquainted with the state of Maine. The most recent journey covered new ground and we ventured across the border into Quebec.

Canada and Maine have banded together to entice visitors to the Kennebec-Chaudiere Corridor. International borders aside, local inhabitants have been criss-crossing the area via land and water for centuries. A number of Maine residents near the border speak fluent French, which makes perfect sense given the geography.

The region derives its name from the Kennebec and Chaudiere Rivers, which meander through the Corridor.

The Beginning

Our journey began in Augusta, the state capital, although the city of Bath, further south provides the official southern gateway for the Corridor. We had a look at the Maine State Museum, encompassing things relevant to this state of delectable lobsters and durable L.L. Bean clothing.

Continuing on, we paid homage to another significant commodity from this part of the world--maple syrup. Our stop was at the Arnold Farm Sugarhouse, just off Highway 201. Silly me believed all syrups were alike...definitely not! Real maple syrup is a substance unto itself, with only the faintest resemblance to the imitation variety. Regardless of modern technology, producing the syrup requires hard work and hands-on labor. Afterward, our hostess offered us samples of rich maple cream which disappeared in no time.

Moose Ahoy!

We were driving near Jackman, an area of northern Maine, known for moose sightings. Ironically, our group was speaking about the creatures. The escort from the tourism office, mentioned they could use a new moose photo for their promotional materials.

Our driver was first to notice three cars pulled to the side of the road. Yellowstone may have it's buffalo jams, but this was quite possibly a moose jam. We were in luck. Not far off the highway, standing in a marshy spot was a bull moose. We scrambled for cameras and coats, hoping he would stay put.

No problem! Unlike deer who dart away quickly, this fellow stood motionless as a brown statue. I'd seen moose in Alaska, but none this close. He seemed top heavy to me, his antlers and massive body resting precariously on scrawny legs. By all rights, gravity should just topple him over head first. We stared at him and he unabashedly stared right back.

Our mutual gawking lasted at least seven or eight minutes, ample time to observe him and take pictures. Without so much as a backward glance, he turned into the brush and was gone.

Jackman, Maine is officially in the Boon Docks, as my grandma would have said. But that's a good thing. Who can find fault with an abundance of open space, set against rolling mountain backdrops? Outdoor enthusiasts will find fishing, kayaking and hiking opportunities plentiful.

We continued Northward and the temperatures dipped, unfortunately for me, as I only brought one pair of pants! Oh well, just because the calendar reads August, that doesn't mean the temperatures are paying attention.

Across the Border

The Beauce region of Quebec has several pretty towns with sights to see, depending on your travel schedule. Notre-Dame-Des-Pins is particularly proud of its covered bridge, built in 1929. In the brilliant afternoon sunshine the red structure did provide a dramatic contrast to the green countryside.

In Saint Georges we stopped for a look at the Church of Saint-Georges, considered one of the most beautiful in Quebec. Our young guide had such an engaging accent, it was a pleasure to listen. If someone can be said to "ooze" enthusiasm, she did. The church has notable artwork and architecture.

On the south side of the St. Lawrence River in Levis, we drove aboard the ferry for a quick, 10-minute ride across the river.

Quebec City was as I had heard, much like Europe, in both the atmosphere and appearance. Easy to see why movie makers select the old town for filming, rather than flying across the Atlantic--the architecture is exactly like that of a small European village. One recent film, Catch Me If You Can, used this setting.

The old town has gently sloping, narrow streets and window boxes spilling over with flowers. Like a castle or Medieval fortress hovering above, the Chateau Frontenac presides over all. Built in the days when railroad hotels were meant to dazzle, this hotel gets more graceful with time. The old saying "they just don't build them like they used to..." is apropos for the Frontenac. After nightfall, the exterior lighting on the upper stories creates a radiant scene.

My only regret was the short length of our stay. For a thorough look, plan at least a week to experience Quebec City, which as been designated as a World Heritage City by UNESCO.

Back to Maine

Back in Augusta, we stopped at Old Fort Western. The Corridor has a number of historic military forts left as reminders of those early conflicts between the French, English and Native Americans.

Still alive with activity in this millennium, Old Fort Western is a museum and educational facility. It was built in 1754 as part of a defensive system of fortifications to protect the Kennebec and the coastal settlements. Prior to his troubles, Benedict Arnold used the Fort as a staging point for the assault on Quebec in 1775 during the American Revolution. He stayed in the area for three or four days as his boats were completed and supplies loaded.

Speaking of boats, our final stop was the Maine Maritime Museum in Bath. This facility houses the largest collection of artifacts pertaining to the maritime heritage of Maine. Thanks to seasickness I rarely get on the water, but I'm still enamored of boats, nonetheless. Located on 20 acres, it includes five original buildings from the Percy & Small Shipyard, among other things.

For more information on a journey within the Corridor, click on www.kennebec-chaudiere.com.

Kathryn Lemmon is a freelance travel writer living in Indiana, her publishing credits numerous newspapers and magazines throughout North America.

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