TheTraveler

 

Medieval Meets Modern in Ennis, Ireland
By David James Allan

When Ireland is mentioned in most circles of the United States, images of young girls dancing in brightly colored dresses, the ‘Comely Maidens’ that statesman Eamonn De Valera believed embodied Irish-ness, stomp in unison through our minds. Or perhaps, our heads are filled with a vapory glimpse of wizened farmers, bespattered with sod and more than a dram full of ‘the cure for what ails ya’, moaning through endless stories of green-tinted days of yore in softly lit public houses of hardened turf walls. Americans are only partially responsible for the perpetuation of these stereotypes, certainly the Irish Tourist Board has not rushed to showcase modern Ireland, perhaps out of fear that travelers would not be smitten with its cosmopolitan feel and ever-present economic prosperity.

Ireland’s eclectic capital Dublin wears its prosperity well, which might explain the greater popularity of the more remote reaches of Western or so-called ‘Real Ireland’. While the West offers the remote beauty that Ireland is famous for, there is also ample opportunity to taste the new vibrancy.

The town of Ennis (don’t call it a city), capital of County Clare is the perfect place to sample old and new. The people of Ennis are proud of their history, which you can experience at the Clare County museum for free, just off of O’Connell street, 9:30am-5:00pm Tuesday - Saturday. Be aware though, like most civil service buildings in Ireland, they close for an hour and a half during lunch at 1pm. (Civil service jobs are hard to get, but such perks). Ennis must be one of the holiest towns in Ireland, having a 12th century friary, a Cathedral, Poor Clare Abbey, and a host of other churches to gawk at or worship in.

History is fun for some, but Ennis is also a modern town. While Dublin may boast a blistering array of upscale boutiques, the more relaxed atmosphere of Ennis shops, adorning narrow bustling streets, or nestled under arched alleyways make it a more ideal location to find that Irish treasure. Sure you can buy your Arann sweaters and turf knick-knacks here, but you can also find books, DVDs, electronics, and couture clothing. For the night owls craving a 4 am sausage roll, there are two stores, Dunnes on O’Connell and Tesco on Francis Street, both open 24 hours.

Once only the home of the bland ‘cuppa tae’, Ireland - Ennis in particular - now boasts a varied array of cafes and coffee shops for the weary shopper in need of a jolt. While the Irish still drink tea like the East India Company is going out of business, increasing numbers of locals are finding out just how wonderful a low-fat hazelnut latte can be. Having sampled all of them during my visit, a few emerge as worthy of mention. Café Yum off of the Corn Market serves an excellent cup, but the food is mildly over-priced for what you get. Mocha, under the shadow of the Great Liberator O’Connell’s statue, has a wonderful variety of snacks and meals in a cozy environment of plush chairs with a warm welcoming staff. The owner Yvonne, particularly fond of New York, having lived there for years, loves to chat, so long as she isn’t frantically serving customers.

The best cup of coffee isn’t in the center of town, but rather a mile and a half outside on the Tulla Road at The Grove Bar and Restaurant. This recently renovated pub has a bright, open design with excellent décor and a four cornered bar capable of handling the thirstiest of wanderers. Staff members at The Grove are expertly trained in the art of coffee and love to show off their skills. If you do stop in, stick around for a meal. Lunch begins at 12:15 and the plates are piled high with mounds of fresh meat, veg n’ spuds enough for any appetite. Evening meals are also available with a fine variety to suit any taste. The Grove is family owned and Justin and Maria O’Driscoll (siblings, not a couple) welcome Yanks and locals alike.

After a gluttonous gorging, psych yourself up for the nightlife. Clare is famous for music and Ennis is full of venues to hear whatever your ears desire. Brandon’s on O’Connell is a popular spot with the younger crowd, playing modern music during the week. Charlie Stuart’s out along Parnell Street has live bands of a loud sometimes angry nature on weekends, quenching any angst driven need, but difficult for conversations or the enjoyment of a quiet pint.

If late night drinking is your pleasure or the need for DJ spun madness takes hold, head to the Queens Night Club at the bottom of Abbey Street. Most of the younger locals end up here at some point in the night, but none of them boast about it. Several other pubs, like King’s across the street (the name hints at a local rivalry) or Knox’s further up toward Bank Place are also open late without the same whiff of sweat and desperation.

Don’t panic though if you really did go to Ireland to hear some fiddle n’ banjo music, there’s plenty of that too. Ciaran’s next to the Queens has sessions most days of the week, and Cruise’s, actually part of the Queens Hotel complex, throws down a mean whoop and holler trad fest every evening; ‘Comely Maidens’ welcome.

At the end of the night its good to have a comfortable bed to fall into, and Ennis has a variety of accommodation to choose from. Most of the hotels, like the West County on the Limerick Road or the Temple Gate in the city center are average two star affairs, so luxury can be hard to find. The Woodstock Hotel, 3 miles outside of Ennis off the Lahinch Road, boasts a full 18-hole golf course and exotic remote surroundings. For assistance in accommodation, try the Tourist Office, located conveniently inside the museum.
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