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By Jackie Johnson The most awe-inspiring caves in the world are said to be in eastern Afghanistan. But, given the political situation in that part of the world, it’s not likely that any Westerner will be able to visit anytime soon. If ever. So the runner-up on my wish list of caves to discover was the Grutas de Cacahuamilpa, which are easy to get to from Mexico City, Taxco or Acapulco and open year-round. You can see them for just $3, a terrific deal at what I discovered is a not-to-be-missed attraction. It’s hard to believe, in this high, hilly country south of Mexico City, that the mighty Rio San Jeronimo, the force that shaped these caves, still flows far beneath us. The approach is modest. Just a dusty parking lot, a shop selling snacks and trinkets, then a path leading past papaya trees to a bridge, with broad, steep steps up to the cave entrance. Suddenly, you find yourself in what looks like the set for a space epic set on some weird, oddly-lit planet. A long, sweeping concrete staircase winds down, down, down past great craggy formations into the first of twenty or so vast underground caverns, each easily as large as a football stadium. Everywhere there are icicle stalactites and altar-shaped stalagmites, some spangled with crystallized salt. Over the years ‘pictures’ (some striking, such as a red-eyed wolf, a parrot in relief, and the queen’s throne; others requiring a great deal of imagination) have been identified in the natural shapes, crags and sworls of the rocks and walls. Tour guides play this up with real (or maybe invented, but completely entertaining) stories about the images. This being Mexico, a good number of these pictures-with-stories have Roman Catholic themes. The devil is well-represented. But some of the tales are more playful. When our guide, Benito, works two flash- lights, one in each hand, at a certain spot while slowly walking forward, two of the formations cast the silhouette of a man and woman moving closer, then appearing to kiss. Alas, at the same time an older woman, hefting a club over her head, advances on the lovers. It’s an age-old story played out in this shadow drama 190 metres (623 feet) below the surface, and it gets a good laugh from my group of mostly American, Canadian, Japanese and Mexican visitors. In September, the rainy season causes a waterfall near here. But now the old river bed is stone dry. We pause for a few minutes at a natural auditorium where a full stage and seating was added in 1988. From time to time the Philharmonic presents concerts of light pops and classics in these unique surroundings, where the incredible natural acoustics would make the experience, no matter what was on the program, simply unforgettable. These two-hour tours, given by locals in Spanish or English, form spontaneously and frequently at the entrance. Wandering off on your own is tempting, but not permitted. However, you can get close enough to touch the formations. They feel, and look, like intricately-carved granite. Benito tells us about the banditos who once used these caves to hide out and stash their loot. In legend, at least, these bandits were so clever about knowing the many rabbit hole-sized entrances (most are now blocked off) and surviving in this rock cathedral in absolute darkness, that they were never caught. Then there is the sad tale of the Englishman who came to explore sometime around 1820. He went in alone, fell on the rocks, broke a leg and sent his dog for help. But near-by villagers ignored the imploring animal, apparently believing it to be an evil spirit. In 1860 the skeletons of explorer and dog were discovered, side by side, deep in one of the caverns. Their shared grave marks the spot. While many other caves I have toured, such as the ones in South Dakota’s Black Hills or created by mining in Northern Ontario, require a sweater or jacket, these grutas are as warm as the balmy temperature on the surface, but muggy. Shorts and a tee shirt will be all you need, plus sturdy walking shoes. (I wore jeans and sandals and besides being too hot, earned some nasty blisters. ) A raised sidewalk and concrete stairways have been constructed throughout, but these can be damp and even slippery in places. The tour only goes about three kilometres (not quite two miles) and circles back to the entrance. But with hundreds of steps up, and down, I felt like I’d done an hour of aerobics and was ready for the pool back at Posada de la Mision, our hotel in Taxco. The caves are lit for dramatic effect. For eyes that are over age 40, like mine, it can be difficult to see where the steps are, and where your feet are. Next time I’ll want to have a flashlight. For the truly adventurous, there are a further two kilometres (one and ¼ miles) of caverns to explore. Some of these ‘semi-open to the public’ caves can be seen with a tip to your guide at the end of the standard tour. Beyond them, the caves are completely undeveloped and require that your bring your own spelunking gear. The river that created these caves now flows at a deeper level, and the deeper caves it has formed can be explored by raft, but only by special arrangement. The two-hour tour costs 30 pesos ( about U.S. $3) for adults and 20 pesos for children ($2). All the stairs mean that the caves are not accessible for people with disabilities, but volunteers will help (and even carry people in wheelchairs) for a tip. If you drive, the caves are easy to get to – not far from the new Acapulco/Mexico City toll-way. Day-trips by coach are offered by several tour companies from Mexico City and Acapulco. The caves are also a half-hour ride by combi (a converted van) or bus from Taxco for about $2 each way, running every half hour. The Grutas De Cacahuamilpa are open every day from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.
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