| The sound of sweet silence greets the lucky visitor of Ulaa, Patagonia. Nestled on the shore of Lake Puelo, the chalet-style lodge is tucked into a forest of Cilhoe, Cypress and Arraya trees, peeking through foliage onto the lake’s changing emerald hues. Unobtrusive in its natural setting, Ulaa stands as a prime example ecotourism and sustainable travel. Our journey to Ulaa began in Buenos Aires. My husband, Bill, and I flew for two hours to Bariloche, Argentina. From there, the Ulaa Transfer Taxi Service took us on a 90-minute drive to Lake Puelo. The winding road wove past deciduous trees bearing the fiery reds; scarlet and gold of autumn leaves coloring the hillsides and valleys. Beyond rose the craggy granite slopes of the Andean mountains, their peaks fringed with snow The final part of the journey was a 45-minute boat ride that traversed two lakes, a river, and rapids, concluding with a 15-minute hike up the hillside to the Chilean Customs building overlooking Lake Puelo. With passports stamped we were ready for the final short boat ride from the Argentina/Chile border to our destination - Ulaa. Waiting to greet us was Diego, the host and manager, along with Kino, the white-furred, tail-wagging dog who immediately stole our hearts. We soon met Juan Carlos, Omar, Gabriel, Gabriela, Celia and Roberto, all part of the friendly staff Entering the lodge we embraced the warmth of the hearth fire and aromas of “homemade gourmet cuisine.” Chef Gabriel presented a tray of pate, cheeses, meats and Pisco Sours before the savory three-course luncheon. A truly exceptional Chef, some of Gabriel’s masterpieces include home-made pasta, chicken glazed delicately with a lemon-garlic sauce, flan with caramel, steak tender enough to cut with a fork, chocolate mousse and even pumpkin soup. Ecotourism and sustainability is no “greenwash” at Ulaa, but a core tenet of the resort’s mission. We enjoyed fresh vegetables from the organic farm and meats from the smokehouse. Herbs and fruits were nourished in the greenhouse and composts of organic wastes added to the soil’s richness. The farmhouse overlooks the organic gardens. The upper level consists of a loft with a comfortable bed covered with a cozy down duvet. The view looks out to the mountains and organic farm, with a partial view of the lake. Carved stairs lead down to a bathroom, sitting area, and kitchenette with a refrigerator. Electricity is on for a few hours in the morning and evening. The beach house sits alone on the sandy and pebbled beach among plum, apple, hazelnut and walnut trees, peeking out through Arraya trees to the lake. The guest house is a two-story cabin situated on a cliff overlooking Lake Rocas. The total privacy, floor to ceiling windows, wraparound deck, solar panels and handcrafted wooden bathtub make this an exceptional retreat. The Machupes live in the Primary (first) and Segundo (second) Corral Villages. Ulaa provides employment, training, room, board, and a salary while the Machupes provide legends, and craftsmanship, as well as geographical and historical knowledge. Ulaa offers several activities for guests. We rode horses on the well-traveled, woodsy path to Segundo Corral village and we hiked, relaxed and visited with the staff and locals. Spa treatments and Temezcal “sweat lodge” Ceremonies are available if reserved a day in advance. Omar, the guide, has several hikes to lakes, mountains and forests. The tranquil beauty of Ulaa combines respect for the environment, cultural heritage, and local economy. This, topped off with a caring, friendly staff, makes it a place that restores and sustains; a true model of ecotourism Travel Tips:
Information and Reservations: Special thanks to Luciana, Diego, Gabriel, Gabriela, Juan Carlos, Omar, Celia, Roberto, Kent, Pablo, Kino and Squeaker for making it such an unforgettable trip for us. Back to TheTraveler.
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