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A Howler Monkey Wake-up Call
By Kathryn Lemmon

Who needs a wake-up call when howler monkeys are nearby? Their throaty roar is sufficient and if you doze off, don't worry, they keep up their conversation for a good 20 minutes or longer. Judging from the sounds, you'd suspect miniature lions were cavorting in the tree tops. It's all part and parcel of staying in a jungle lodge. Without phones, wake up calls are not an option, just wake-up knocks amid heated monkey conversation.

Costa Rica, sandwiched between Nicaragua and Panama, has been called the "Switzerland of Central America." Not for the geography of course, but for its strong emphasis on peace and education. Unlike some of it's neighbors, Costa Rica has a stable democratic government, making it safe to visit.

Howler monkeys are just one variety of wildlife to be found there. Visitors can also expect to see sloth, spider monkeys, white-faced capuchin monkeys and Jesus Christ lizards (they walk on water--hence the name). It's true, the little critters do run upright on their hind legs. Managing a kind of hopping-motion from left foot to right foot, they are comical--like cartoon characters come to life. For birders, the biggest attraction is the famous quetzal, but over 800 species of birds dwell in Costa Rica.

I signed up for nine nights and ten days with Costa Rica Expeditions, one of the pioneers in eco-tourism. The tour highlighted three regions, Monteverde, Arenal and Tortugero, with a brief look at San Jose.

Volcanoes are a prominent feature of Costa Rica. On our first day we drove about two hours from San Jose to Poas, one of the deepest active volcanoes in the world. Fortune smiled upon us and the sky was cloudless. From the observation platform, the immense crater below us was visible. The round space was filled with water of an otherworldly shade, a glowing aquamarine. But Poas was just an interesting prelude for Arenal volcano, yet to come.

It was dusk by the time we reached our first lodge, Monteverde. The journey by bus had covered rugged, unpaved roads, uphill most of the way. According to our naturalist guide, Luis, there is no plan to pave that section of roadway, thus keeping traffic to a minimum. Costa Rican officials are greatly concerned about balancing their growing tourism with preserving the natural environment.

The main focus of Monteverde is the cloud forest and it's wildlife. Humid winds and mountainous terrain combine to hold clouds over the continental divide, producing vegetation in which hundreds of birds and land creatures flourish. Before our three-hour hike we watched as an aggressive coati-mondi, a raccoon-type animal, stole a unguarded plastic bag off a picnic table. No stranger to tourists, he snatched it in his mouth and ran like mad into the jungle. He must have smelled someone's lunch was inside. We all secretly hoped he would be rewarded for his daredevil efforts.

Our hike in the cloud forest was nearly at an end when we saw the male quetzal! Luis was elated, bouncing around like an exuberant four year old, as were the rest of us. For fifteen minutes we aimed our binoculars and our telescope at the large bird. Apparently for birders, seeing the male is like Christmas, Easter and New Year's Eve, all rolled into one. I know absolutely nothing about birds, but he was a handsome creature with an incredibly long tail.

Monteverde Lodge seemed luxurious by jungle standards. Each room is spacious, with especially large windows. They have several computers for emailing, a nice touch if you want to drop a line to family back home. After a long morning hike, the hot tub works wonders on your leg muscles. The bar/restaurant area is especially inviting, with a round fireplace and open design.

After Monteverde, we headed to the area around Arenal volcano, which has been continuously erupting since the late 1960s--only in small amounts of course.

The volcano lurked, perfect and conical, behind thick cloud cover--so close yet so far! In a country of volcanos, Arenal met the criteria of the picture-perfect specimen, including the small wisp of steam puffing out the top. The best show is after dark, when Arenal's red lava makes a beautiful contrast to the black sky. I can't vouch for that personally, since both nights of our stay were cloudy, but I did see some amazing photos. Arenal was kind enough to show herself completely on the morning we left and camera shutters were snapping.

Our final stop for three nights was Tortuga Lodge located in Tortuguero, on the Caribbean side of Costa Rica. Tortuguero means "land of the turtle." In terms of true jungle isolation, this lodge wins hands down. Surrounded by tropical gardens, the lodge uses a solar energy system, which is one of the reasons they have been recognized with ecotourism awards.

Talk about a laid back place, the front desk fellows go around barefooted and in shorts. The dining room serves family style meals and the food is plentiful. My room, on a corner, had great cross ventilation with screened windows on three sides. A narrow strip of land and the river, separate the lodge from the ocean. In fact, you can hear the sounds of the waves from the lodge.

The stretch of beach is particularly significant if you're a green sea turtle. From July to October, the turtles come to lay their eggs on this now-protected 22 mile section of land. Night time turtle walks are an option if you're visiting during those months.

At Tortuguero, we did much of our wildlife viewing by boat. Having read up on blue morpho butterflies, I was thrilled to see a total of six during our first ride. Their bright blue color is actually just the effect of light passing through the prismatic scales on their wings. However Mother Nature made this possible, the shimmering blue butterfly is wonderful to see. Monkeys were again leaping through the trees and we also saw cayman, a type of alligator, in the river.

We arrived at Tortugo Lodge by small boat and left by small plane, as no roads reach this spot. The airport doesn't exist, only a paved strip of runway within sight of the sea. It provided a nice change--not a Starbucks or row of plastic chairs to be seen--no seats at all for that matter. No waiting was the best part. We stepped off the boat and walked immediately to the plane. Within five minutes the river became a narrow, curving band below us.

Although it's been said before, the naturalist guides with Costa Rica Expeditions make the difference between a mediocre trip and an outstanding adventure. Without Luis, virtually none of our wildlife viewing would have happened. Cheerful, and ever accommodating, it was apparent from day one, Luis loved his country and his job. He never tired of showing it off, from the tiniest frog to the largest tree.

Depending on your desired activity level, Costa Rica Expeditions offers several options, including whitewater rafting. The tour described here, Costa Rica Explorer is considered their mildest adventure. It did include several three to four hour easy hikes and is geared toward wildlife viewing.

For more information contact www.costaricaexpeditions.com.

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