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November/2003 * 11/26/03

 

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The Atlantic Side

 

 

 

Crystal Clear Waters of Tobago
By Nadia Ali

As the plane approached the airport on this tiny Caribbean island my excitement grew. From the tiny porthole the airlines call a window I could see what was a mass of deep-water turn into the clear blue of rushing waves upon the coastal shore. The plane lowered as the runway began. The doors opened and a heat encouraged by the gentle Caribbean breezes suddenly hit me, I was here on the island known as Robinson Crusoe’s island.

Unlike other Caribbean islands that have big developments catering to tourists, Tobago is very simple, almost untouched by huge hotel conglomerates that clutter the beachfronts, which was one of two reasons why I had come this way. The other was to see something known locally as the “Nylon Pool” just off the coast of Tobago’s Pigeon Point. It is a crystal clear span of water offshore that offers visitors a natural swimming pool amidst tropical fish and a coral reef.

Fortunately, I could walk to Store Bay from my hotel and although it was only about a twenty-minute walk, in the Caribbean heat it felt like an hour in the desert! As I reached the area where I could board the glass bottomed boats, there was a sudden fluster of touts stating prices of the tickets to go on the two hour boat trip, each slicing that extra bit of his price to cut a deal with me. For a moment I felt overwhelmed, as though I should have turned and run in the opposite direction. But once I realized they are just trying to out bid each other and harmless enough, I wised-up and began to haggle over the price with them.

Getting in the boat turned out to be a bit of an ordeal, as I waded into the water up to my knees to step up onto the entry steps to the boat, which incidentally was constantly moving with the tumble of the waves. The boat owner had a couple of men aiding the passengers to their seats. I sat, scrunched between other passengers on the wooden seating around the enclosed glass bottom of the boat that allows you to look directly down into the water to see the spectacular views of corals, depth of waters, and sea life. But I felt somewhat claustrophobic and jumped at the chance to ride on the roof of the boat, even though I was basically sitting on a flat roof not made to carry passengers. The roof offered a more appealing view and fresh breeze.

As we pulled away from Store Bay, the sea got bluer and deeper. From the roof I could see clumps of darkness in the seabed where the coral reefs were, and the smoky shadows of schools of fish moving through the waters. As for the coast of Tobago, the white sand and green, palm tree shore were fantastic to look at.

The first stop was at the coral gardens, which is only viewable from the glass-floor on the bottom of the boat, so standing around the seated passengers I overlooked the glorious colors and growth that is the Tobago coral reef. The boat owner pointed out various types of fishes and sea life, but you have to be quick as they dart between the coral.

The next stop was the coral reef in the shallow water where snorkel masks and safety shoes are provided. The day I went to the coral reef the under currents were slightly rough and kicked up the powdered coral, though I was able to see some tropical fish and white stubbly coral.

Then onto the waters of the nylon pool which are Caribbean blue, warm, clear and waist high, so that’s about three feet deep on me. It is surrounded by the natural coral reef found in the water close by and has soft white sand on its bed. The sand has that gritty feel to it, if held in your hand, and comes from the crushed coral from the neighboring Bucco Reef.

It is truly a natural swimming pool, hence the name being “nylon” as being sheer and clear. From here you can see the coast of Tobago in all it’s glory, with swaying palm trees and white, outstretched, deserted beaches. In the water you can sometimes catch glimpses of the colorful, topical fishes that live nearby. Such fishes include the squirrelfish, parrotfish, angelfish and triggerfish that dart between your feet, disappearing into the blue. There is no seaweed to be found here, just clear, blue water, which takes an initial sting on the eyes because of the somewhat high salt content, but once you have submerged your body for that underwater dive it’s splendid.

Passengers were allowed to dive off the glass bottom boat, If swimming isn’t your thing and you would rather enjoy the breathtaking view, you can retire to the top of the boat that has special railings for that extra comfort and safety as you soak up those balmy sunrays.

The boat owner also caters for small children who are allowed to experience this slice of heaven on earth with their parents or guardians supervision. They have lifejackets on hand should the children need them. Unfortunately, the boat operators don’t stay at the Nylon Pool for very long; at most you may get thirty minutes (of a two and half hour tour) to experience the luxury of floating aimlessly in paradise.

For me the experience of swimming in the openness of the sea in waist high Caribbean water was dream worthy. The sky is blue, the sea is blue, and the only thing that wasn’t blue was me who was enjoying every minute of it.

The tour is open year round and offers great family and individual fun, leaving you with memories that will linger with the crystal waters of Tobago.


Nadia Ali (nadia@freelance-worker.com) is a Freelance Writer who has been published at Concierge, Wcities, Island Mania, Go Caribbean, Time Out London and Weissman Travel Reports.



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