| It was a duel to the finish, a slice of the old west in a verbal test of supremacy. No we weren't in Tombstone, we weren't wandering through Lincoln County, we were heading under... and more than six feet. We were caving and the differences between Arizona's young upstart, Kartchner Caverns, and New Mexico's Grand Dame, Carlsbad, were more than life and death. "Actually we refer to caves as being active or inactive here," the Park Ranger said as we stood in the depths of Carlsbad Caverns. We'd just asked what percentage of the cave was living and she knew exactly where we'd just been. It all started with a short tram ride up to the entrance of Kartchner Caverns. As the rain pummeled down, our tour group of 15 huddled beneath a metal canopy while our tour leader Vivian ran through the rules. No shirts or coats tied around the waist -- they might swing onto the rock and contaminate it! No cameras, no purses, no bags -- same as before. No sunglasses on foreheads -- could fall off. No gum or candies in the mouth. "Feet stay on the trail, hand on the rail." Anyone accidentally leaning on the rock will have to stand aside while the tail guide marks the place with a red flag. The evening crew will vigorously clean these spots to remove any fibers or other contaminants. We wondered what we were getting into. Vivian explains that the goal is to keep the cave as pristine as possible. All of these rules help avoid the growth of algae and the introduction of foreign substances in a wet, "live" cave. Completely debriefed it was time to enter. Whoosh, the big steel door closed behind us as we passed through the first air lock. We’re in the one of two conservation chambers, which guard against moisture loss. We walk beneath a fine spray of water that serves to cut down each person’s "halo" of dry skin cells and hair, as well as adding moisture that we will take from the cave by our very presence. And then we’re in -- and in awe. Cave decorations filled the vista -- draperies, flows, bacon (wavy coloured strips), curtains, wayward fettucine (helictites), soda straws, Kubla Khan (the only named column in Kartchner Caverns). Translucent formations, glistening wet and still growing lie next to chalky "dead" ones. We learned about Gary Tenen & Randy Tufts discovery in 1974 and the fact they kept it a secret for the next 14 years. We saw the routes they took through as they crawled through this marvel of nature. The only thing that would have made the experience more stunning would be a moment when the subdued lighting is completely turned off. A moment of utter darkness... followed by a kiss! A cave kiss that is, a drop of water falling from the ceiling, said to bring good luck. My daughter got one. So did my husband. Moving on to New Mexico, we drove up to the Carlsbad Caverns Visitor Centre, discovered in the late 1890’s. Using our National Parks Pass, we were given entry tickets and lined up for the 750-foot elevator ride down into the cavern. I stifled a giggle as we passed through rotating door to the subterranean cafeteria and small gift shop area, but nothing prepared us for the immense scale of the room just beyond. Jaws dropped. We snapped pictures knowing full well they wouldn’t begin to capture the scene. It was a fairy wonderland, otherworldly, immense, grandiose. It was also surprisingly quiet considering the steady stream of multi-lingual visitors. We walked the self-guided 1.25 mile loop trail through the Big Room’s Chambers, overwhelmed by the sheer size and volume of "inactive" formations. The next morning we walked down through the natural entrance, along the seemingly endless, switchbacking 1.25 mile trail to the Big Room. This time we joined Emily (our ranger guide) and 70 others for a tour through "King’s Palace". Once open to the public, vandalism and souvenir-hunters forced access to be restricted. Stopping in the "Queen’s Chambers" Emily asked my daughter if she would be willing to work the lights. Emily launched into the story of the photographer and his assistant who came down without flashlights when the single generator at the time failed. One would strike the match, the other would run as far as they could until it burned out. My daughter shut off the lights. Blackness, thick and inky reigned and then Emily struck a match and told Isabel to "run!" The match fizzled out. A cave kiss dropped on my nose. I laughed. Dead or alive, active or inactive, Carlsbad or Kartchner, two different room tours or eight, kiss or no kiss -- caving is captivating good fun where everybody wins! If You Go: Kartchner Caverns State Park (9 miles south of I-10 on State Hwy 90) Carlsbad Caverns National Park (23 miles southwest from Carlsbad on Highway 62/180 and 7 miles west from the park gate at Whites City)
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