TheTraveler

Tales of exotic adventures, humorous anecdotes, and musings from The Traveler... The adventure awaits...
November/2007 * 11/29/2007

 

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The Washington Monument Refecting in the Evening Light

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Jefferson Memorial with Cherry Blossoms in the Foreground

 

 

 

 

 

 

D.C. Trekking: Day-hiking Around the Nation’s Capital
By Steve Pincuspy

At first glance hiking does not seem an ideal way to experience the treasures of Washington D.C. There are so many built features to this urban metropolis that hiking appears both out of place and a waste of precious time. Yet strapping on a day pack is a fantastic, if not the preferred, way to get around the nation’s capital. The city is tailor-made for self guided walking tours with a bevy of signs, postings and historic locations that will suit anyone.

The Nation’s Mall is a hiker’s paradise. Gravel paths, grassy expanses, hills, marble steps – everything seems to have been designed for a moderate workout, especially with a 20 pound pack behind you. Scampering up the stairs to The Capitol Building overlooking the Mall puts the scope of the trek into sharp relief. It is a long way to the Washington Monument, and twice as far to the Lincoln Memorial. One can easily move from site to site upon the myriad paths intersecting the Mall, though they are underlain with a slippery tannish-hued stone that makes travel tricky even with trail running shoes. First stop: the National Museum of Natural History

An impressive array of exhibits greets the eyes, starting with the colossal dinosaur exhibit. Strangely, the most taxing aspect of navigating the display is not the massive 300 million year old bones everywhere, but the continually undulating throngs of families jockeying for photo opportunities. A backpack attached to the posterior makes this a very interesting exercise in agility. More interesting still is the contrast between sophisticated survival gear and the basic tools carried by ancient peoples. Amazingly enough, ice age hunters survived extreme climates with nothing more than fur and leather, putting the contemporary adventurer’s reliance on nylon and synthetic fabrics to shame.

Eschewing the elevator for the stairs provides some relief from the crowds at nearly every major D.C. gallery or museum, and a new hiking challenge. The National Archives has an amazing façade with steps leading to an imposing entryway fashioned after ancient Greek architecture. Amongst the rising colonnades one is instantly transported to an era long gone. Although viewing the Archives’ documents is an awe inspiring journey every American should take, viewing them quickly is obviously not a guarantee promised by the Bill of Rights as people press together for close-up viewing. Photos are not allowed here, so be forewarned. The nearby National Gallery of Arts - Sculpture Garden has a marvelous fountain in which weary hikers can soak their feet afterwards. Though people are forbidden from climbing the artwork, picnic goers regularly frolic underneath the structures, enjoying a meal, conversation or silky jazz tunes performed live most Friday evenings.

At 555 feet tall the Washington Monument beckons to be conquered. The obelisk dominates the skyline, evoking images of ancient Egyptian pharaohs. However, hikers will be disappointed to find that the steps to the top have been closed to the public since the 1970’s. Still, standing in the shadow of the edifice, feeling the warmth of the stone, makes the trek worthwhile. Proceeding down hill brings you to the Reflecting Pool and Lincoln’s Memorial. In keeping with the classical Greek architecture of the Mall, the Memorial was designed to convey the power and presence of the Parthenon. Standing on the famous footsteps below Lincoln’s image, where events Dr. King delivered his famous “I Have a Dream” speech, only confirms the magnetism of this place.

One of the more interesting legs is the trek to the Jefferson Memorial. Jefferson’s namesake is set off from the rest of the Mall by a long tree lined side walk. Low lying Japanese Cherry trees gently caress your head as you breathe in the slightly salty air of the nearby Tidal Basin. Hikers are whisked from the intrusive structures presiding over the Mall into a cool serene landscape of reverie: old men fish, women bask in the sun and children play games nearby. The memorial is situated within East Potomac Park, and is even more breathtaking at sunset when the sun’s final rays give the statue of the famed writer of the Declaration of Independence an iridescent glow. Its smooth domed exterior blends into its forested surroundings as day fades into night. The sacredness of the moment can only be broken by hunger pangs.

No trip to D.C. should be complete without a trip down to the local fish market. The Southwest Fish Wharf market on Water Street comes alive after dusk, filled with the friendly banter of people bartering for Chesapeake Bay crab on a veritable flotilla of barges and docks. Tourists are few here, yet no one bats an eye at weary backpackers ordering crab cakes, jumbo shrimp, corn and whatever else can be stuffed onto a plate. To cap off a long day of hiking stop by the Capitol Hill/Eastern Market District. Though lined with bars and restaurants, the scene is rather subdued on summer weekends. According to locals, many expats flee the city to avoid tourist crowds, leaving the adventurous hiker with plenty of dining options. Though advantageous for hikers it is equally perplexing as a true appreciation of D.C. would seem to require a lifetime of weekend excursions by foot or any other means of travel.

Yet a brief glimpse of the many sights leaves an indelible impression of a town waiting to be explored and absorbed. People reinvent themselves here constantly - such as the young Kenyan you might encounter who is opening up a Moroccan food stand in the Mall - even as the landscape is meant to convey an aura of permanence. Similarly, a routine tourist foray can evolve into a mini-expedition of sorts covering 5 to 10 miles of historic grandeur and cultural experience. The best advice is to pick a pace that is suitable to you and head out with map in hand. In this wilderness there are simply too many destinations to hike toward just one.



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