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December/2006 * 12/23/2006

 

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The Grand Teton Mountain Range

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sunset on the Tetons

 

 

 

The Mountains of Our Imagination
By Katherine Lemmon

Grand Teton National Park will forever stand out in my mind as the first place I saw a wolf in the wild. It could easily be the first and only time. Oddly enough, I wasn't on an arduous backcountry hike, but standing directly in front of my room at Jackson Lake Lodge. He howled three times before I realized it wasn't some large bird off in the distance. In my defense, the howl was much higher-pitched than I expected—not like the kind you hear in werewolf movies. But I saw him (or her) standing in a low-lying area to my left. Unfortunately, there wasn’t a soul in sight to share this extraordinary experience.

In four days of travel around the park, we also saw elk, two bears, a mama moose and baby, a mama coyote and babies, plus antelope. But, according to park staff, a wolf sighting is something special. I have no doubt I’ll remember that shaggy gray creature forever.

Mama moose and her wobbly baby were adorable. To the delight of staff and guests, they seemed to prefer staying within sight of the lodge buildings. When compared to grizzy bears, I suppose humans do seem less theatening. Wherever the pair wandered an entourage of camera-toting humans followed. Driving from the lodge entrance one morning, we saw them wading in a shallow pool of water. I counted fifteen cars lined up along the side of the road, all stopped to watch them…talk about a fan club! 

In my pre-trip research I read an intriguing description of the Tetons. The guidebook author said when small children are asked to sketch mountains; they draw something very much like the Grand Tetons. With my first glimpse of this glacier-carved range, I completely understood what she meant. Each peak has a name and the tallest is Grand Teton at 13,770 feet, give or take a few inches. The most prominent peak in the northern end of the range is Mount Moran at 12,605 feet. The jagged mountains seem to soar directly skyward, with no foothills to ease the transition. The peaks had a covering of snow, still clinging firmly in June, adding sharp contrast to the color scheme. Whether age nine or ninety, these are the mountains we all imagine in our mind’s eye.

The mountain range and the desire to protect it resulted in the establishment of Grand Teton National Park in 1929. Over time, due to the vision and generosity of John D. Rockefeller Jr., additional lands were added, creating the present day park. 

If you want to gaze in wonder at the Tetons, while enjoying all the comforts of home, search no further than Jackson Lake Lodge. Because I travel often, I was beginning to think no sight could ever again take my breath away, but I was wrong. The dazzling view from the lobby windows did it. Using the lodge as a home base, you can explore the Grand Tetons and the abundant wildlife living in this part of Wyoming. I’m not a river rafter by any means, but I thoroughly enjoyed a two-hour float trip on the Snake River. The gentle current makes this adventure suitable for all ages, with no experience necessary. We were privileged yet again and saw a mature bald eagle while on the river. From his position atop a lodgepole pine tree, the white head was unmistakable. A lunch time cookout was included, rounding out the excursion. 

Hiking is another way to fully experience the park. Over 250 miles of hiking trails are available and you need not be a serious hiker. Easy walks are possible too. Horseback riding, guided fishing and fly-fishing are other popular activities within the Tetons. 

We stopped for a brief look at the Colter Bay Visitors Center and Indian Arts Museum. The Center had a nice selection of books about the park and the region, no doubt hard-to-find elsewhere. Rangers were on duty to answer questions and hand out maps. The museum contains a variety of Native American artifacts, including a fine exhibit of moccasins. 

In one stop you can visit both Menor’s Ferry and the small but lovely Chapel of the Transfiguration. William Menor came to the valley in 1894 and made his homestead beside the Snake River. He constructed a simple platform ferry that became a vital crossing point for the early settlers. You can see the original whitewashed cabin built by William, the general store and other outbuildings. The chapel continues as a house of worship today. It sits alone and austere, against a backdrop of mountains. The structure may be simple, but it’s setting is nothing less than spectacular. 

In terms of driving, Signal Mountain Road is a highly recommended, five mile drive offering terrific views of the entire Tetons Range, Jackson Lake and most of the Jackson Hole valley. The Snake River Overlook at the north end of the Antelope Flats presents yet another classic panorama of the mountains, with the gently curving Snake River as the foreground. Blacktail Ponds Overlook is a great place to spot deer, moose, osprey and eagles. 

If you prefer to relax and leave the driving to others, scenic bus trips around the park are another option. You can go further afield, in fact all the way to Yellowstone for the day via motorcoach. Yellowstone National Park lies directly above the Grand Tetons and many visitors arrange to see both parks in one trip, flying in and out of Jackson, Wyoming. If you decide to see both national parks, I’d suggest nothing less than three days at each. Here’s another tip, for optimum wildlife viewing, be sure to bring your binoculars. 

For more information on the Jackson Lake Lodge or the Grand Tetons click on www.gtlc.com.



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