| Back in 1901, excitement rippled throughout the art world about an exhibition held in Germany. Despite its bland title 'A Document of German Art', its contents quickly won the city of Darmstadt the reputation of being the Art Nouveau art centre. In German, Art Nouveau is Judendstil. The word Jugendstil originated from the German-language magazine Die Jugend ('The Youth'), one of the art movement's earliest promoters. Jugendstil was perhaps the first popular intent to integrate art into everyday life. To a Jugendstil artist, art was not limited to the picture or sculpture, but the entire surroundings in which that picture or sculpture was displayed. The entirety had to blend -- the building the picture or sculpture was houses in (or on), the furniture around it, even the china and silverware used nearby had to match to form -- in order for a true work of art to exist. Impressed by the ideas of the art trend, the Grand Duke Ernst Ludwig of Hesse invited seven artists to live in Darmstadt to create a habitat they deemed ideal. They received a sizable piece of land and the monetary means to create a 'living and working world.' When walking up the slight hill from Europa Square to the Mathildenhoehe, the eyes of the observer invariably focus on the ornate Russian Orthodox chapel with golden domes reflecting the sunlight. (It might be necessary to be reminded that this scene is not in Russia, but the heart of Germany.) The chapel was built for Czar Nicolas II, who, married to Princess Alexandra of Darmstadt, frequently visited his in-laws and missed his Orthodox roots. The Russian architect Benois designed the picturesque building with its mosaics and golden cupolas. The chapel, where Orthodox mass is still held on Sundays, is the eye-catcher atop a hill, adding a distinctive dimension to the Art Nouveau habitat nearby. Today the local Justice of the Peace has a sub-office in the tower for couples in search of wedded bliss who wish to marry in royal style. Hence the tower's name - the Wedding Tower. Between the Wedding Tower and the chapel is the Art Nouveau exhibition hall that still serves today as an active art gallery. Noteworthy is the first pergola on the stairs, its ceiling a mosaic depicting the Hessian (German state) coat of arms. The next stop for any visitor should be the Ernst Ludwig House, today home of the popular Artists' Colony Museum, designed by Josef Olbrich to be the working place for the artists. The idea he envisioned was similar to a mason's hut, patterned after the organization of constructors from Medieval times. Although the building's design was by Olbrich, the decoration was the work of numerous artists. Sculptures depicting Adam and Eve flank the entrance and two bronze figures atop the door show the Goddess of Victory. In front of the Ernst Ludwig House are the buildings designed by the artists to be their dwellings and which today are named after each artist who created it and originally lived there. Presently, various cultural institutions (such as the Institute of Poland and the German Language Institute) use these stately buildings as their offices. The adjacent plane tree grove should not be missed. It existed at the time the artists' colony was formed and sculptor Bernhard Hoetger viewed it as the ideal setting to integrate his sculptures. His cycle of four sculptures symbolizing the growth and decay of nature can be viewed there, as well as a first design of the sculpture for the tomb of the painter Paula Modersohn-Becker (who died during childbirth). The oft-photographed fountain group there is also the work of Hoetger. Darmstadt is located just 22 minutes by rail from Frankfurt/Main, Germany's biggest banking center and busiest air hub, making a visit to the 5O-acre art site not only worthwhile for lovers of art, but for those who happen to be in Frankfurt on business.
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