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HAIGHT
ASHBURY...The Spare Change Tour
by Mike Marino
The Spare
Change Sixties gave birth to a flower power Garden of Urban Eden in
San Francisco's Haight Ashbury District. Half a world away the war
raged on in Vietnam while a counter culture of dissent protested and
searched for answers on the homefront. Olive drab was replaceed by
tie dyed robes and shirts...peace symbols and beads replaced bullets
and grenades...and bongs as big as mortars created sweet dream smoke
that mingled with the San Francisco fog. The Lone Ranger and Tonto,
heroes of a prior generation were displaced by Cheech and Chong and
Timothy Leary told everyone to Tune In...Turn On..and Drop Out!! The
cries of Make Love Not War rang out loud and clear and many answered
the call. They came from New York City...Fargo, North Dakota...Detroit,
Michigan...Amarillo, Texas and from every small town and large city
in between. Horace Greeley once said..Go West Young Man and this time
they came in droves. The highways and two lanes of America were filled
with a rag tag army of hitchhikers...seekers..sinners and saints drawn
like a magnet by a force stronger than anything in a George Lucas
movie. It didnt matter what road you were travelling on to get there
either, afterall, it was 1967 and in Haight Ashbury it was The Summer
of Love!! The generations that wore flowers in it's hair and preferred
to make love and not war poured into the Haight Ashbury vortex in
droves. It was an urban starship with a cast of characters that included
hippies, yippies, Hells Angel's, Diggers, musicians, artists, seekers
and searchers. Peace, Love and Spare Change became the battle cry
of the generation in search of itself. If the Beat Generation was
getting old and gray, Haight Ashbury hit the scene like a tie dyed
dose of Grecian Formula. Today the Haight has replaced beans and rice
with fern bars and there are now more ATM machines than roach clips.
Some vestiges of the Summer of Love remain but gentrification has
given the old girl a real Oprah makeover. So when your walking down
Haight Street and someone plaintiffly cries out for Spare Change and
you don't have two nickles to rub together don't despair, chances
are they'll accept most major credit cards!
The
Spare Change Tour
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The
Haight is a repository of rockin' 60's landmarks but it can also
boast that it is the gateway to one of America's most spectacular
urban green areas and also one of the Bay Area's more awe inspiring
views. The Deadhead Haight deadends at Stanyan and there before
you like a green friendly sentinel is the the gateway to Golden
Gate Park. The park is the west coast version of Central Park
in NYC and hosts a variety of attractions. There are botanical
and Japanese gardens to inspire and calm the tourtured travellers
soul...a planetarium to study the skies and contemplate the Big
Bang...recreational activities galore and the world famous Steinhardt
Aquarium. Ball fields and buffalo paddocks share the park with
picnic area's and small ponds. If you look carefully you might
even see the ghost of Don Quixote as he does battle with a very
real giant windmill located in the park. During the Summer of
Love, the park was the scene of pleasant afternoons of giant bubbles
and kites flier higher than most of the area's residents and on
January 14, 1967 the amplifiers of the Jefferson Airplane inaugurated
the Human Be-In at The Polo Grounds that was attened by a veritable
hipster's Who's Who including Allen Ginsberg, Lawrence Ferlinghetti,
Jerry Rubin and Dr. Timoth Leary.
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TWIN
PEAKS: Portola Road is the Bay Areas portal to one of the
city's more spectacular views and vista's. During the mid 60's
Twin Peaks was the scene of many mind altered sunsets and sunrises
enjoyed by the Peace and Love generation. Today its an easy ride
in your BMW to the top and like the pot of gold at the end of
the rainbow you'll be rewarded with a sweeping view of the downtown
area of Ess Eff thats a high in itself.
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THE
GRATEFUL DEAD: Jerry Garcia and the Grateful Dead are the
undisputed crowned heads of the Deadhead Realm that was Haight-Ashbury.
Originally known as the Warlocks the name was changed and the
rest is histoire!! The legendary group has inspired faithful legions
to kick asphalt across the American continent to take in as many
Dead shows as the braincells will allow. 60's MIA's on an inner
journey for Garcia Nirvana singing along to worn 8 tracks to TRUCKIN
and CASEY JONES. If The Grateful Dead were kings of the psychedelic
kingdom then 710 Ashbury Street was Buckingham Palace!! After
your pilgrimage to the Dead House go to Ben and Jerry's for a
double scoop of Cherry Garcia ice cream.
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THE
HELLS ANGELS: Black leather jackets lived side by side with
jeans and sandals. Two wheeled Darth Vadars lending an ominous
air to a land of peace and love. The gangs name came from a legendary
WWII fighter wing and although they gained true noriety at Altamont
during a Rolling Stones concert they flew missions up and down
the streets of the Haight. The Jedi meet the Dark Side. If you
cross the street from the Dead House you'll see 715 Ashbury where
the Angels called home. Home is where the heart is!
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COUNTRY
JOE AND THE FISH: Every kingdom reveres it's court jesters
and in the Haight Ashbury district that moniker has to be bestowed
on Country Joe and The Fish. Their dark, musical humour cut right
through the fabric of 60's social hypocripsy and scored a bull's
eye each time out. The MacDonald family had long been a voice
of social reform in the Bay Area and Joe carried on the tradition
in a style that was Lenny Bruce mixed with Bob Dylan. The Fish
Tank was located at 638-640 Ashbury. ...And its One..Two...Three..What
are we fighting for?
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JANIS
JOPLIN: The reigning psyche-diva's of the day were Grace Slick
and Janis Joplin. It was said that when Grace sang you could tell
by her voice that she wanted to make love to her audience, however,
when Janis belted out Little Piece of My Heart it was clear she
wanted to do much more than that! Janis hit the Haight to take
the vocal lead for Big Brother and The Holding Company on a rockinblues
journey that began in her hometown of Port Arthur, Texas. Her
star shined brightly for a brief time until it exploded and her
raspy voice and plaintiff wails were no more a beacon in the 60's
night sky. Port Arthur has a bronze bust of the psychedelic era's
musical version of Calamity Jane, but you can visit her homes
away from home in the Haight. Two of them are located at 112 Lyons
and at 635 Ashbury. To roundout your Joplin pilgrimage go north
of Haight Street one block to Page, turn right and find 1090 Page,
not only the site of one of the Haights early crashpads, but is
also where Big Brother went full tilt boogie in between gigs.
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JIMI
HENDRIX: The truly experienced will
want to kiss the same sky that Jimi did while living in a Haight
Ashbury purple haze simply by heading back up to Haight Street
and crossing Ashbury on your way towards Stanyan. Jimi was the
favorite son of Seattle, Washington and is buried there overlooking
the land of the Space Needle but his pre-wah wah Woodstock days
were spent around the lava lamp at his apartment at 1524A Haight.
You can almost hear the Star Spangled Banner ripping from the
windows!!
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THE
JEFFERSON AIRPLANE: Heading towards Fulton Street you won't
run into any hookah smoking caterpillars but if you go to 2400
Fulton Street you will see where Alice would have hung out had
she been around in the 60's. Grace Slick left the Great Society
to join The Airplane and in their search to find somebody to love
they left an indelible mark on the Bay Area sound that is legendary.
Although the group has gone through many name changes and incarnations
they truly were the group that built this city!
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ALLEN
GINSBERG: The bard of the beats called
many places in the Bay Area home for a time including a poetic
stint in The Haight. Follow Ashbury north and cross the Panhandle
to Fell Street, turn right approximately a block and a half then
HOWL with the delight of discovery when you reach 1360 Fell..ground
zero for the literati of the 60's.
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RUDOLPH
NURYEV AND MARGOT FONTEYN: If you pirouet
your way to 1546 Waller Street you'll see where ballet got busted
for smoking pot during the midsummer's night dream that was 1967.
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CHARLES
MANSON: Not exactly a Flower Child but for those who truly
want to get gruesome you can visit 616 Page Street where Chuck
lived for awhile content with his dementia.
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DIGGERS,
DOCTORS AND DONUTS..OH MY!! Lyndon Johnson had proclaimed
The Great Society complete with social reform and welfare programs
aplenty, however, in the Haight a group called the Diggers had
declared The Great Un-society. They put on free feeds in the Panhandle
during the week for the local resident weed whackers and foods
such as rice and beans were elevated to the status of Haight haute
cuisine. The DIggers also operated The Free Store at 1090 Cole
Street. Downstairs were blue jeans and field jackets of every
style and size and on the mezzanine balcony were shelf after shelf
of books and magazines that resembled an underground version of
the Library of Congress...nothing in the store was for sale..it
was all absolutely FREE!! The good doctors also took the Haight
Hippie-cratic oath and dispensed thorazine by the bucketload to
many a bad tripper providing they could find there way to the
Free Clinic at 409 Clayton Street near Haight. Tracy's Donuts
at 1569 Haight Street just a half block west of Ashbury was open
into the wee smalls to accomodate the homeless, the late night
trippers, talkers, nodders and rappers..all singing along to the
jukebox in the corner that always seemed to be playing Bob Dylans
EVERYBODY MUST GET STONED!! Finally, no trip to the Haight would
be complete without a visit to 1535 Haight Street, site of the
Psychedelic Shop..The Grandfather of All Head Shops. Black lights,
posters and enough patchoulie incense to fill the Taj Majal were
its hallmarks. Sitar music greeted you as you entered the shop
and zig zagged yoru way to the back of the shop where the beads
parted and you gained entry to the womb room that contained the
best poster art on the planet. Black lights added ambience and
low, murmured WOWS and FAROUTS punctuated the air.
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THE
TRIPS FESTIVAL: Ken Kesey and Company including beatster Neal
Cassidy and the rest of the Merry Pranksters tripped the night
away to the music of The Grateful Dead, Big Brother and the Holding
Company and The Loading Zone. The amplified party of all party's
took place at the Longshoremans Hall at 400 North Point.
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THE
STRAIGHT THEATER: Located at 1748 Haight
and torn down in 1981, it opened on July 21, 1967 as an alternative
to the more commerical venues offering rock n roll. The opening
night performance was by Neal Cassidy who performed THE STRAIGHT
THEATER RAP.
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THE
MATRIX: (3118 Fillmore Street) The Matrix has become known
as the Airplane Hangar. This former pizza parlor was converted
in late August - early September of 1965 by Marty Balin of the
Jefferson Airplane to showcase the band. Anchovies and pepperoni
had now been replaced by white rabbits and surrealistic pillows
served up ultra cool.
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THE
AVALON BALLROOM: (1268 Sutter at Van Ness) The Avalon was
operated from 1966-1968 by CHet Helms & The Family Dog. Originally
built in 1911 as The Puckett School of Dance, by the farout 60's
it had become the School of Cool. The first group to take to the
stage was Captain Beefheart and His Magic Band on May 20, 1966.
Today it's a multi-plex cinema and the faint odor of marijuana
has been replaced by popcorn and milk duds.
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WINTERLAND:
(Post and Steiner) On May 30, 1966 the slick sounds of the Jefferson
Airplane graced the stage of this former ice skating rink. Amplifiers
had replaced ice makers and a litany of rock royalty challenged
the halls acoustics. Jimi Hendrix recorded his critically acclaimed
Live At Winterland at the venue in 1968, and Martin Scorcese immortalized
performances by Bob Dylan, Neil Young, Joni Mitchell, Van Morrison,
Eric Clapton and The Band in his film The Last Waltz filmed entirely
at Winterland.
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THE
FILLMORE AUDITORIUM: (1805 Geary at
Fillmore) The Fillmore first saw dancing action in the art deco
30's and by the 40's zoot suiters and others roller skated the
night away. The 50's brought rockin' rythym and blues with performances
by greats like James Brown and Ike and Tina Turner and in the
60's the Fillmore would become the auditorium of choice and would
be the locale for many musical firsts and some highly significant
and culturally important lasts. On December 10, 1965 Bill Graham
put on his first show at the auditorium with the Jefferson Airplane
and another Haight Ashbury group that formerly went by the name
of the Warlocks. By the time they hit the stage that evening it's
name had been changed to the Grateful Dead. The next three years
brought wave after wave of psychedelia's best acts taking the
audience with them on musical journeys that transported them onward,
upward and inward. Lenny Bruce who taught a generation to talk
dirty and influence people gave his very last concert appearance
on the stage at the Fillmore on June 24, 1966 sharing the bill
with Frank Zappa and The Mothers of Invention. By July of 1968,
Bill Graham like Elvis, had left the auditorium to take over the
Carousel Ballroom at Van Ness and Market Street and would soon
change its name to The Fillmore West. Bill Graham died in a helicopter
crash in 1991.
The
corner of Haight and Ashbury is symbolic of not only a particular
summer but of a changing of the guard...an elevated social questioning
and inner search. It is also the location where on October 6, 1967
it all ended with a procession that proclaimed The Death of Hip. Today
you can still buy a tie dyed shirt..pick up a Jerry Garcia bumper
sticker and on occasion the cries of Spare Change still ring out,
but when visiting the Haight leave the flowers in your hair at home
and bring your checkbook instead. Plenty of shopping and dining to
do at some unique stores and shops not found elsewhere in the city.
Peace and Love have been replaced by commerce but every now and then
coming from some second floor bay window you can hear a CD blasting
out a rendition of The Dead's CASEY JONES!! Also, make sure you have
a pocketful of spare coins..some things never change.
Mike Marino is a radio broadcaster, on line publisher of a Nostalgia
and Travel magazine and a freelance writer and has been publsihed in
numerous magazines and ezines in the United States and The UK. The style
has been referred to as humorous and informative, giving a somewhat
off beat spin to subject matter. He's traveled the country from stem
to sterrn and although born and rasied in the Rustbelt Capital of America,
Detroit, Michigan, he's also called Los Angeles, Honolulu, San Francisco,
Seattle and Bar Harbor, Maine home. Today he lives in knotty pine splendor
in the Ouichita Mountains of Southeast Oklahoma with his wife, his campfire
pit and word processor. He has a penchanct for Hawaiian Shirts, Corona
and Jimmy Buffett albums. Feel free to contact him regarding use of
these articles or for contract work at dharmabumroadie@yahoo.com
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